We took probably the most scenic flight ever from Bohol to El Nido with Air Swift. We flew over tropical islands galore with beautiful white sand beaches and coral reaching into the glistening aqua seas. Air Swift own the airport at El Nido and all the surrounding estate, including Lio Beach. Unfortunately they have “allowed” the Municipality to “set” the rates for the tricycles so that the 6km journey to El Nido town costs 400 pesos instead of the usual 100-150 pesos for that length of journey. This did not go down well with Pete but with no Grab or Maxim service available, they had you over a barrel so we paid up.
We headed to our beachside accommodation in Corong Corong (a quiet alternative over the headland from El Nido). We wandered along the beach at sunset and ended up in Sip, a sunset bar doing 2 for 1 cocktails. Woo hoo!
Further along we found a great pizza place – the best 5 cheese pizza with honey and chilli – wow!
The next day, we were greeted with a simple breakfast and a very friendly cat who liked cuddles and to sleep on our doormat.
Pete had the lurgy so we had a lazy day.
We found a beachside place for a local lunch and once the heat died down, walked to El Nido for sunset time. Wow, it is full of bars, restaurants, hotels and the bay is rammed with boats. Another sunset cocktail was followed by a kebab and washed down with a few beers.
Next morning we were up early for a full day of adventure on Tour A. We boarded our boat along with another 15-20 people. Most seemed to be staying at a backpackers and were good fun. First we docked outside Big Lagoon on Minaloc Island. There talented guys jostled about with their fleet of kayaks waiting to charge you 300 pesos for a double and, if your were lucky, 2 paddles. We were slow off the mark so we only got 1 paddle which was solid wood, as heavy as a Viking Long Boat oar and had very narrow blades. Ah well, I paddled Pete though the melee of all the other kayaks to the far point of the lagoon which was less busy and beautiful. Too many others were busy taking their Insta photos at the lagoon entrance.
Next we snorkelled but it was a bit choppy for brilliant visibility. Next we landed at a beach for a locally made lunch (grilled fish, prawns, mussels, lots of veg, noodles, adobe chicken, rice, bananas and watermelon).
Then we waded round the corner to the entrance to Secret Lagoon. Some people refused but it was just a short dunk under the water to come up on the other side in a small enclosed lagoon inside the karst. As the tide was rising, we only stayed minutes before ducking back out.
Next we went to 7 Commandos beach (named as a regiment did get stuck on that beach in WWII). It was very beautiful, white sand, volleyball, shade under coconut trees and lots of fish when we snorkelled around the headland. According to our guide, Happy, the next beach would have been even better but would have cost 20pesos each so it didn’t win the vote. I think tourists just get fed up here of being asked for more money, another fee, a charge for this or that and it gets a bit tiring. So free won!!!
We said our goodbyes and that evening repeated the Sip bar for sunset cocktails followed by pizza at Bella Vita
Next morning we rented a scooter for two days. We rode to Nacpan Beach, apparently on the world’s best 50 beaches. It was a long stretch of pure white sand but we had approached from Twin Beach, adjoined by a sand bar, equally white and calmer for swimming. A pig and two cows lived between the 2 sand paradises – strange place to farm animals.
We had a lovely lunch on Nacpan Beach, another swim and then we rode back.
We spent sunset somewhere other than Sip Sunset bar for a change !!Β Β At a hostel on the hill where people were ziplining past, it was pretty stunning overlooking Las Cabanas beach.
That evening we rode to El Nido to try the street food. I had a barbecued tuna steak, a huge corn on the cob and rice and Pete had chicken skewers and rice, add on 2 beers and it was just over Β£10. Bargain.
Our last day we rode anti-clockwise around the whole peninsula (maybe 70km in total).The road across the peninsula was only sealed in parts but passed though real, rural Philippines. We saw people washing clothes in the river, we saw buffalo bathing in rivers, paddy fields and very basic existences. Then every now and then a glass fronted shop selling bikinis or wedding dresses – weird!
Once on the coastal sealed road, there were a couple of sporadic tourist places to stay. On the East Coast, this was all focused on kiteboarding. We had a cold drink along Sibaltan Beach and a little further along found a kite boarding place open for lunch. We were entertained by the friendliest kitten who maybe thought it was a puppy, the way it played with a dog.
We refuelled like the locals using a vodka bottle of petrol. The locals loved it, laughingout loud when Janet took a picture of pete refuelling.
It does make it easier that the majority of Fillipinos speak good English so there is not such a language barrier in rural areas as some Asian countries we have travelled.
Next we stopped for a cool down swim near Dipnay, right near San Fernando RORO ferry. The locals were in swimming but I think they thought we were mad joining them – although Pete did get invited for a beer!
Upon returning to Corong Corong, we decided on one last sunset cocktail (or 3) and another amazing cheese pizza. Yum!
The next morning we decided if we couldn’t attract a reasonably priced tricycle to the port, we’d walk the 20 minutes (with our one wheelie bag) and sod the scammers. So we arrived at the port rather hot and sweaty but content that we’d saved 100 pesos – maybe we are the crazy ones?
And now we are on a 4.5 hour fast craft crossing to Coron Island. Pete was a bit worried when they were giving away free sea sickness tablets and sick bags, but so far, so good ο.
